Micro BR - Important Power Supplies Note

Hi Tyler, to get your songs in the folder you must first Bounce them then export them to either wav file or mp3 then when you use your usb you will see your songs, don't forget to name them it"s easier to find them, hope this helps

You are right V=IR. However there is something to consider(I used to be an electrician 1 million years ago). Most power supply devices can keep up with just so many amps after that the voltage starts droping. V = IR yes but V is getting smaller as the unit is trying to use more power and it keeps I where it should be.
If you use a power supply that can supply more amps that is called for then the unit might go over its power rating (power = VI) and fry.
By the way I've learned that the hard way.

So use a power supply that has proper voltage, polarity and amp.

I just want to add a little boring physics

In electronics, there are two types of power supplies:

- Voltage generator: this will keep the output voltage constant regardless of the current being drawn from it.

- Current generator: vice versa, will keep the output current constant.

So a typical power supply, being a voltage generator, will give the same voltage no matter what resistance the power consumer has - that's in theory

What is the proper polarity?? Some suppliers state "reverse polarity". Reverse from what?.... and another states "Tip negative, sleeve positive". Can I trust the info?

I'm sure there are many that will still want to use whatever 9 vt adaptor they have laying around but will switch the wires if they knew in advance which way it should go.

BTW, most ads state the PSA is regulated so if you get hum from an inferior adaptor, that may be why.

You can also use the 1 Spot by Visual Sound (http://www.visualsound.net/1spot.htm). It costs about the same as the PSA series, but is built much better. Can be used in place of the 120 or the 240.

I have the Micro BR and I use the power supply that came with my Micro Cube Amp. The adaptor is the ACR-230E. Works very nicely.

I've delt alot with electronics, As long as you use a regulated supply, so it doesn't spike and the polarity is correct + center, and you don't exceed the stated voltage, You should be fine. (Oh and make sure it,s dc output, not ac, unless you build your own bridge rectifier).

I'm using a Netgear P/N pwr -075-712, which is dc 7.5v 1amp

This is way under the specified voltage, and works absolutly fine, proberbly pulling extra current to make up for it.
Two months later and no problems.

An important scary note about using correct batteries, as nobody seems noticed anything here so far.

AVOID any "super energy" batteries, especially those wich has "lasts longer in digital equipment" catchphrases on their packaging. For a few years I am too lasy to post photographs of the bateries but I think I will dig up them someday soon.

Regular Duracell are totaly ok.

However there are types of batteries (if I remember manufactured also by energizer) that has about 1.8V or more when new, despite the standard marking o "1.5V" and has a small font text on the rear side of the packaging (as well as on their site) that "some equipment will run much hotter and brighter, and might last for a shorter lifespan" (or somewhat alike that). I have screenshots of this as well, but need to dig up.

Indeed, if "digital electronics" are with LDO-based power supply, overvoltage might actually just give a slightly longer battery life. However if it has some voltage-sensitive electronics (even motors or heating elements) connected directly to batteries, than this slight overvoltage will cause much higher power (squared!) to dissipate there.

In MICRO BR such batteries cause display backlight anomalities (bizzare fading effects) and something else that I'dont quite remember. It caused quite a hell for me the day I took a micro-br to a live performance as a mix multiband mastering tool + recorder and had it shuddenly behave erraticaly. Quite a scary sight.

As soon as I will remember the exact names of the batteries, I will post them.

We've just got a Boss Micro & a third party 9v adaptor. I put a meter on the output to check the ( as stated here) Centre was Positive and plugged it in. Nothing worked.
I then switched it so that the centre was Negative and It worked!
So, for the record, outer Positive, inner Negative.